Kenzo duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim once again stuck to their bold approach to design; this summer taking a more cut-and-paste aesthetic as opposed to the heavy skater fabrication we saw last year. The designers explained the collection was based around swimwear, ‘because we like to be beach ready’. Continuing this notion, fabrics can be seen in glitch-style printed silks, graphic houndstooth and chevron patterns. Laser cut, knee-high leather sandals rocked in black, white and mustard colours – almost replicating fishermen’s waders – and stomped down the runway with various displays of red, white and blue patterns. Cut and pasted together like a collage, the ornaments created volume. Complementing this were patent leather bags in the same colourway with umbrella wristlets in different sizes and patterns. Then followed utilitarian belts with various coin pouches. The models were adorned in heavy jewellery depicting scarab beetles, giving a nod to Egyptian culture, further juxtaposing the collection and creating a direct contrast between what Leon and Lim’s vision was – and perhaps emphasising a lack of breadth and direction.
Rob Stannard
