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‘I was drawn to this idea of a traveller… the concept of natural history, natural selection,’ said Sarah Burton on her Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for Alexander McQueen. One could see hints at Darwin’s theory of evolution throughout. The infamous McQueen moth was featured on entire suits, but drawn in what could be perceived as a ‘Darwinian’ style of sketching: very anatomical, tonal and delicate. Burton’s choice of fabrics were also distinctive to her idea of ‘natural’ – using natural fabrics, she left hems undone and cuffs distressed. Waistcoats perhaps hinted toward the Victorian era also. Suits were of a mix of smart and untucked, more casual, long shirts, while the colour palette was fairly simple, consisting of mostly monochrome and red. In this sense, the collection came across as one of McQueen’s more wearable… if it weren’t for the rather fierce facial pieces that adorned the models from ear to mouth.

Jessie Gardiner

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