The usual muted tones of Akris were prominent for Spring / Summer 2016. However, there was a more systematic logic behind the way in which they were presented at the catwalk show in Paris. Almost like colour blocking, they came out in order: black and white, then blue and red. The looks opted for simple, clean-cut silhouettes that elongated, rather than exaggerated, the form. The clothing had a very architectural feel, being heavily influenced by the architect Sou Fujimoto: Famous for his design for the Serpentine Gallery Pavillion in 2013. With white dresses in fabrics almost replicating skyscraper windows, layered so as to create a linear lattice structure that’s signature to Fujimoto’s style. The last few looks of the collection had a more intergalactic feel, with a space age silver vinyl we’d previously seen on flats. Dresses had an almost circuit-board tessellation, with an ode to pixels and more architectural references. Gold and silver dresses and blazer suits were followed by the final look, a PVC silver vinyl coat further emphasising the brand’s ode to fabrication and its importance to fashion-forward fabrics.

Robson Stannard

Illustration: Jessie Gardiner

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