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Hien Le’s collections are for clothes lovers that actually care where the shoulder seam of their blouse is positioned, how long the darts in their dresses are or that the stripes of the breast pocket of a shirt contrast the ones on the torso.

For Spring / Summer 2017, there’s a lot of details to discover. My favourite is Le’s focus on the midriff section: layered blouses and shirts that end below the breast to reveal a see-through fabric that semi-expose the wearer’s waist. For silhouette he stays on the classic side – however, true to his design DNA: tops are close to the body but not tight, narrow in the waist and on shoulders, skirts and dresses cover the knees, trousers are pleated and play with volume. The first looks going down the runway were head-to-toe marinières, in various widths and directions, so Le’s collection takes you back to a Saint-Tropez of the days when the the little town on the Côte d’Azur was as classy as this collection.

Björn Lüdtke

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