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Belgian designer Glenn Martens challenged classification this season as he presented yet another collection as creative director at Paris Fashion Week for Y/Project; this time, distorted proportions and gender-bending silhouettes were to be found mixed with various time periods and subcultures: Virago sleeves on hooded sweatshirts, a built-in corset with drop-crotch pants and the more contemporary oversized denim or leather chaps. If Martens was looking to produce an energetic and fun runway show this season, he certainly exceeded. But more than that, he succeeded in pulling off a coherent collection without any coherency – a line-up of odd mixtures and references for a season with an undeniable spirit.

Words: Brent Taalur Ramsey

Illustration: MRSCMillo

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