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This season marks the 10th anniversary of Phoebe English’s designs. In celebration she presented, for this Autumn/Winter 2016, a selection of ten specific looks representing the materials and processes of the aesthetic she follows since creating her brand. But this season’s collection wasn’t only about that, Phoebe also wanted to take a moment to analyse today’s fast and never ending fashion cycle.

The presentation took place in London’s Institute of Contemporary Art, which the designer transformed into an anonymous waiting room. Very dark and intriguing, the performance was a continuous experience in which models would be forever waiting for their turn as if trapped there for life. The sound of ‘Please remain in line…’ came back redundantly, and when finally the expctedly ultimate moment was about to happen, the models stalked to the other side of the room in order to be analysed and presented in more detail.

Highly interested in textiles, we see in this collection an amazing variety of textures, fabrics and cuts that have been part of Phoebe’s designs all along her career. She created a series of very different looks that are yet still very harmonious. Hair and make-up were matching the idea of the collection: Some of the faces were hidden, covered in dark and messy make-up creating beautiful, androgynous faces.

Despite the venue’s dark and monotone atmosphere created by Phoebe, the models appeared beautiful and strong at every moment. All of the characteristics of Phoebe’s identity and aspects that reflect her designs were worked into this winter collection and the felt beauty and precision put into each garment is something that defines her.

Words: Margaux Thibaut

Illustration: Robson Stannard

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