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Darker, larger, bigger, better. Make it flowery here and there, add some denim and don’t forget black. Black is an essential in Y’s Yamamoto’s design and the story did not change for his latest Autumn / Winter collection. Layers, layers, layers: Short trousers worn with tight ones underneath, a white shirt, sweatshirt and blazer. The body’s curves are covered, hands and feet are barely visible but the final result is sexy and most of all, it has no gender. Welcome to the new era, it does not matter who you are as long as you do not want to be defined by your sex. You need no definition to be yourself. Let’s stop being scared of what we don’t know. That’s the message Yamamoto is spreading. Though a feminine side shines through with red floral patterns, instantly and violently contrasted with a military green recalling soldiers’ uniforms. Oversized black hoodies on top of transparent dark skirts, showing off pale skinny legs. On the feet we see boots and trainers; no heels. Everything is terribly static even when moving, like a new rule trying to be set. A mixture of formal and informal goes over all plans and expectations.

Giulia Burti

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