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Layering is the keyword to introduce Oliver Spencer’s Spring / Summer 2017 collection, a one-way ticket to our next romantic and exclusive summer destination. As the first model walks towards us, we can instantly appreciate the unbelievable harmony the designer managed to create between different – and most of the time not so friendly to each other – fabrics. Suede, velvet, cotton, all ready to ‘sit’ side by side and collaborate to make the show an authentic masterpiece of variety. Sometimes stripy pieces, other times garments adorned with simple oriental patterns – each item was designed taking inspiration from Spencer’s favourite view, a romantic spot on the Italian coast where the designer owns a villa. Summer breeze, the impact of sun rays hitting the skin, all references come together in the dark yet warm palette, which goes from deep reds over navy and night blue to ochres tonalities. Now a suede jacket makes her access on the catwalk, worn onto a linen patterned grey shirt with an elegant neck. Underneath are loosely rolled up dark trousers looking perfect for that exotic trip to a tropical island and even more to wear with a pair of elegant slippers. Surprising about the collection is the all-over styling of the pieces. The collarless smocks, the velvet burgundy bomber jacket worn on top of a striped, woollen, sleeveless tank and a pair of well-cut trousers are the definition of the kind of risk that Spencer expect men to take to turn next summer into the most fashionable season.

Giulia Burti

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