Walter van Beirendonck Autumn / Winter 2014, photography Dan Lecca ghjsygaduawzvbdzruzsa
Models at Walter van Beirendonck‘s latest show wore feathered headdresses that read ‘STOP RACISM’ in bright red letters. They resembled the Native Americans’ traditional war bonnet – a piece carrying strong spiritual significance and often seen as emblematic of cultural appropriation issues. It was far from a first foray into social activism for the Belgian designer, but this particular rendition seemed like a direct quip at the fashion industry. Some thought it was aimed at Chanel’s recent show in Dallas where models wore white feathered headdresses.
The clothes were significantly more sombre than Beirendonck’s whimsical Spring / Summer 2014 offering. Bold stripes and geometrical patterns appeared on deconstructed blazers, trousers and scarves. The colour palette was eclectic, ranging from dark blue, forest green and burgundy to vivid red, kelly green and pale pink. The most interesting feature came from the designer’s unusual take on tailoring. He created classically cut suit jackets and sliced them up to reveal makeshift breastplates and other armour parts. The models effectively seemed like they were prepped for war – cue the helmet-like hats they bore – and the theme of the show suggested they were waging a battle on bigotry.
Marie-Ève Rochon
