‘Like Falling In Love’ – An Interview With Aurélie Sutter

Aurélie, how did you get into fashion? 
Initially through styling when I was 13. I loved doing makeovers and would completely change my friend’s look. After spending six months studying Psychology at University I realised it wasn’t for me, so I took some time off to figure out what I wanted to do. After a trip to New York with my best friend for three months – we went there to learn English, but spoke French the whole time and went shopping – I noticed the limited selection of shops in Zurich; basically there was just H&M. I thought, “There are people who make these clothes and I can make them, too.” Studying at Geneva University of Art and Design made me understand later that fashion isn’t just about pattern cutting.

What is it that you like about fashion now?
Having an idea gives you butterflies in your stomach; it’s like falling in love. I like the process when you start to see what it’s eventually going to be.

Your recent collection won the ‘Annabelle Award’ at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Days Zurich 2013. How would you describe it? 
The collection’s style is feminine. I didn’t really work on the pattern cutting, more with fabrics, which often incorporate my starting point by giving me an idea of the shape to come. For the big shoulder pads I used a particular knit that gave the pieces volume. I simply cut away with my scissors to create the shape. The backs of my dresses are black, so I focused on the front by trying to create a vertical line from the back of the shoulders down to the knees. My ambition was to give the effect as if the fabrics were protruding. I’m never completely satisfied. For my next collection I’ll work more on the volume.

You mentioned fabrics being important to you. Do you have a favourite one?Wool. I fell in love with a knitting machine in Copenhagen. I was the only one using the one we had at school, so that was my place. Another favourite of mine is a fabric which, from the front, shows an image but when you move it, a hologram appears.

What was the inspiration behind your collection? 
A cherry tree planted in my grandparents’ garden when I was born. Moreover, moments spent in their house with my brother.

What do you think made your collection stand out from the others at the award show? 
I was sure Miriam Laubscher would win. I knew the panel was torn between her and me. The difference was that her collection reminded them of Martin Margiela, whereas mine was more individual and personal.

Where do you see yourself in five, ten years? 
I don’t really know. This internship at Anne Valérie Hash is going to be my first one from which I hope to learn to understand fashion as an industry and the processes involved. I’ve only ever known school but not the real life fashion industry and the different jobs it has to offer. We will see.

What are your thoughts on sustainable fashion – is it something that crosses your mind when you design?
To be honest, no, even though I care. When working on a collection at school, you’re alone and have to focus on so many things. I didn’t have the time to think about that. I would have liked to learn more about sustainability, but our school didn’t offer any courses on this topic.

How do you think the Swiss fashion scene has evolved over the last ten years?There’s more honesty and people want to further their knowledge about the Swiss fashion industry. My school’s fashion show is also getting bigger and bigger.

What are the main characteristics of Swiss fashion design?
We have great textile companies like Jakob Schlaepfer, but I have the feeling you don’t get to see this in the Swiss fashion industry. I went to his store in Zurich and bought this amazing fabric covered in colour-changing sequins. I really wanted to use it within my collection, but after a few tests I didn’t get the effect I was hoping for.

Where do you see Swiss fashion in the international market?
I’m not present in the international market, and I don’t think you see a lot of Swiss brands out there, which is a shame.

Do you feel there’s sufficient funding available for aspiring young fashion designers like you?
Once you’ve finished school there are some possibilities to receive financial support. Each year my school gives one designer the opportunity to receive 50’000 Swiss Francs. Paid internships don’t exist anymore; it’s mainly about prizes now.

You’re part of a new generation of Swiss fashion designers. What would you change in the Swiss fashion industry? 
I’d like to make it more contemporary and fun, as some collections are almost grandma-style. That’s why I like Julian Zigerli. He’s going to get better and better and will be widely recognised.

Which Swiss piece of clothing you own is your favourite?
Only the one thing: The jumper I was wearing at the awards ceremony is from my own collection. Usually everything I make is tiny, whereas this jumper is more casual and I feel better in such kinds of clothes.

Interview: NoéMie Schwaller