Henrik Vibskov Spring / Summer 2014 Images by Victor Jones
Henrik Vibskov‘s exotic references to mountain cultures collided with contemporary casual at the Henrik Vibskov Spring / Summer 2014 presentation in Paris. Polarising audiences, the show left many craving greater energy from the Danish designer known for his engaging installations.
Entitled ‘The Bathtub Observer’, the show space at 2 Place Baudoyer was transformed into a graphic bathtub hung with yellow hairballs. Sedentary models were close enough to touch. The theme played upon the intimacy of a collection whose charm lay in relaxed, homebound separates.
Mustard yellow and variations on blue formed a scheme for experimentation over loose-fitted silhouettes. A cross-hatched knit came with matching shorts. Vibskov reinterpreted this seasonal trend in print unity by breaking up the vertical story with a thick waistband and cuffs.
Herringbone appeared across several looks – from a skirt and shirt ensemble, to a traditional chemise under black blazer and trousers. Tribal prints were given a hand-drawn quality, galvanising the organic air of the collection. Trousers spanned a gamut of silhouettes, from slim ankle-length pencil shapes, to cuffed denim, knee-length shorts and a billowing fisherman style. A loose jacket was thrown lackadaisically over a white calf-length dress and skinny black jeans, with a ‘more is more’ attitude to layering. Hats were a styling necessity. They extracted the ethnicity from the more subtle looks – a grey ensemble that rested on collapsed shoulders and a light navy coat over a simple tee.
The show was Vibskov’s answer to the seasonal challenges of a post-climate-change wardrobe… and perhaps a meditation on the fact that everything looks more interesting with a pony hair adorned chapeau.
Symonne Torpy
