Now here’s a dilemma: On the one hand you’re one of the few emerging designers at Fashion Week Berlin having managed to establish a trademark from season one. In Marina Hoermanseder’s case that’s moulded leather, which is beautiful – but stiff. On the other hand you like to design feminine and flowing collection in pastels, avoiding black to avoid an association with leather fetish at all cost.

Hoermanseder tries to resolve this dilemma by leaning towards the pretty in her collections. Which works. It is, as always, nice to watch, not only because it’s impeccably crafted. However, maybe a meeting at the intersection of the rough and the pretty could give Hoermanseder’s proposal another exciting angle.

Björn Lüdtke

Illustration: Robson Stannard