While simplicity and naturalness made an entrance, sexual boundaries were torn apart by Damir Doma during his Autumn / Winter 2016 collection fashion show in Paris. Both men and women, in fact, walked in the large, morbidly-shaped men’s clothes – some showing off long hair, surely all of them barely wearing any make-up.

At first sight, one could think the main inspiration was street style mixed with a hint on vintage on the high-waisted trousers, large blazers, high-necked shirts and stripy suits. But there’s more, something that’s not as hard to identify as to admit.

Doma seems to be willing to dress a new generation, in which gender is not important anymore, colours aren’t needed and fabrics are to be used as simply as possible. The shapes are often baggy, actually no bodily curves are emphasised and skin is covered in dark tonalities. Identity matters, but must be shown somehow differently. The models actually looked like fashionably dressed homeless people wearing brown, black, grey, white and dark blue, announcing a new era and its new, unreadable designs.

Words: Giulia Burti

Illustrations: Marcell Naubert