Elie Saab Autumn / Winter 2013
He gifted us everything we could have wanted, because he gave us quintessentialElie Saab. But it didn’t begin with heavy beading and Arabian luxury textiles…
Dramatic smoke filled the catwalk at the Ephemeral space in the Jardin de Tuileries and out walked tailored ready-to-wear looks in black with aubergine accents. A noir satin suit and boxy fur purse were followed by a series of cropped jackets and high-waisted trousers. Navy evolved out of the darkness, and hems were decidedly knee length. Saab’s jumpsuits were cut to perfection, with satin bust focal points, and sheer panels to add to the drama. A woman’s wake played a big role, as light, swirling silks emerged and the gowns began.
It doesn’t take complex divination to predict that Rachel Zoe is salivating over the number of red carpet options provided by the Lebanese designer. A teal gown was matched with teal shoes, for a fluid vision. Moving into deep purple and chartreuse, beading and embroidery – the definitive trademarks of the house – gave decadence to the runway.
Black reemerged, with sheer floating skirts and an iridescent, bejewelled gown that dazzled the flash photographers. Devoré and lace were a wonderfully feminine counterpoint to the strong tailoring of Saab’s business looks. White rounded out the collection, with ivory suits, gowns and a covetable jumpsuit. We emerged into a grey Parisian afternoon, revelling in an aspirational lifestyle, cloaked in silk and sequins.
Symonne Torpy
