For Autumn / Winter 2014, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov once again presented a collection which could be described as ‘sportswear on acid’, although it was titled ‘The Spaghetti Handjob’ by the designer himself. Almost every element of men’s casual wardrobe was mutated into an unexpected feat of craftsmanship, which makes sense for a collection influenced by all things contradictory.There was a black and white jumper in an abstract print paired with cut-out shorts from which 3D geometrical forms erupted. The same type of open origami construction was used on an oversized robe with kimono sleeves. A sweater vest was adorned with colourful embroidery and white tassels mimicking feathers. Models wore knitted caps tied under their chin which were inspired by Russian tank operators’ headgear. An oversized drop-shoulder egg-shape coat in beige, khaki and navy brought to mind Comme des Garçons’ 2D collection for Autumn 2012. A neoprene jumper in the same shape and colours was embossed with a cartoon-like face, complete with eyes, eyebrows and mouth.Amidst all these excessive show-pieces, there were some highly wearable garments that are bound to please. Sensible black blazers, a colour-blocked cardigan and a hoodless navy windbreaker are among them. Sportswear staples sans acid trip.

MARIE-ÈVE ROCHON

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