Thomas Meyer by Dimitra Charamanda
GF: We’re both old Swiss companies and have had a long relationship. They like the things we do and we like their aesthetic; you don’t know if it’s embroidery or woven. It’s a modern type of embroidery they buy from us.
TM: They have a special style, no flowers or romanticism, it’s much more business-like.
Do you produce on demand?
TM: We have no stock. We only have two or three metres in the sample room, we need big brands in order to produce. With big lines we have to negotiate the price; maybe the yarn is too rich or there are too many stitches: keeping the same idea, but making it slightly more commercial.
GF: Normally, designers like to change their mind anyway. With our collection we provide different techniques and ideas. If afterwards designers prefer a bigger print and different stitching, or smaller on different fabric, we can provide that. This is often the case with big labels; they want something special.
You mentioned some characteristics of Akris. What do you think are the main characteristics of Swiss fashion design?
GF: That’s difficult to say because, working with just one company, we can’t account for what’s going on in the rest of Switzerland. We have good designers, but they’re small, so for them it’s always a budget question when it comes to fabrics.
TM: Unfortunately, only very few are successful for a long time and internationally. We export 97% to big brands worldwide. Everyone’s invited to see the range sold. If you have prices of CHF 100 a metre and they have to buy eighteen of it, their reaction is one of shock. Their issue is the minimum orders. We support four to five schools, some from Berlin, with fabrics for their graduate shows.
Where do you see Swiss design in the international market? Do you think there’s enough funding for young Swiss fashion designers?
TM: I think the Swiss Textile Federation does a lot, but designers have to choose from what’s already available; special demand doesn’t work commercially. Lingerie is the main business for Swiss companies. We’re not a luxury brand with huge margins and have to save costs. Unfortunately, we’re limited in our support. It’s a pity to see young designers struggling.
How did your journey at Bischoff Textil begin and how have your responsibilities changed over time?
TM: I did an apprenticeship in an embroidery company. After some time spent in London I was hired by Bischoff Textil aged 20, in a department for the French and Scandinavian lingerie market. I stated I wanted to go to Paris, as our business is 97% export, which means languages are essential. I worked my way up and, two years later, in 1975, I opened an office there. However, ten years later it closed because the customer base of around 150 had changed completely. By developing different markets I became Head of Sales. At Bischoff the big advantage is you’re given a lot of responsibility and can develop special designs just for your market.
What do you like most about your role?
TM: The business is very quick; you need to take decisions every day. Our company and factories combined employ over 1’000 people, working seven days a week, 24 hours a day. The situation changes all the time; we can develop and react promptly, update new designs on the machine and 24 hours later show them to the customer. We sell emotions. Nobody needs embroidery – it’s luxury. Textile people are different; they’re more emotional and elegant.
What’s your role in the Swiss industry?
TM: We’re a leading player in embroidery innovation and I’m the President of all embroidery export companies. We meet regularly and think about different fields, what we could bring into our industry, about new uses of products and how to expand our customer base, even collaborating with competitors as it’s too expensive to invest in a particular niche by yourself. This may be surprising to hear.
Is this the Swiss way?
TM: We’re a small country and have to keep our textile industry alive. We’ve reduced our staff and moved to Asia to produce cheaper lines; we’ve been there for eighteen years now, with our biggest factories in Thailand and Sri Lanka. However, we still believe in Swiss production. All our outerwear is produced here.
What are your future plans for Bischoff Textil?
TM: We’ve recently bought two machines of the latest technology. We believe Swiss production is on the rise again as the luxury market is growing. In the past we delivered a lot for the middle range, but its disappearance has enabled the growth of the luxury industry.
Which Swiss piece of clothing you own is your favourite?
TM: That’s a good question. We have some good shirt manufacturers. Zimmerli is top for underwear, however I’m more influenced by Italian brands. My suits are all Italian.
Interview: NoéMie Schwaller
