Holly Fulton AW14

A strong 1920s influence pervaded Holly Fulton‘s Autumn / Winter 2014 collection. This was attained in a much more subtle and varied way than the usual flapper silhouette. Sure, there were some drop waists and airy pleated skirts. But the idea ran deeper, offering a glimpse into the social and cultural transformations of the time.

Fritz Lang’s 1927 ‘Metropolis’ provided inspiration when it comes to man’s relationship with technology. This industrial age theme translated into graphic prints of cogs on Lurex jumpers and machinery illustrations on baby blue and dusty pink dresses. Although the designer dubbed this effort a foray into her ‘working world’, the arts of the 20s were also on her mind when she was developing the collection. Case in point: the art deco geometric motifs that appeared on silk dainty frocks.

While the Jazz Age was a guideline to the entire collection, Fulton also borrowed elements from other decades. Hand prints were ubiquitous and reminiscent of Schiaparrelli’s surrealist garments. Surprisingly for autumn, florals with overgrown pistils were sprinkled onto clothes, skirts and trousers. It was a balanced compilation of business-ready items alleviated by the designer’s signature funky prints.

Marie-Ève Rochon