A projected apotheosis of Chinese culture, Laurence Xu’s debut Paris couture show tightly wove traditional art with uniquely Western wefts.
Transforming his space into an exposition arena, the Shandong designer vaulted an enormous wooden loom above his runway. And, as artisans labored, seemingly suspended in the sky, six intricately worked couture pieces stood sentry around the room. The energy generated out of curiosity and expectation was palpable.
Entitled ‘Xiuqiu’ (‘Embroidered Ball’), the show’s opening performance focused the buzz, as fêted Chinese artist Li Yugang spun down the runway to personal vocal strains. Sorbet hues billowed into chiffon and were volleyed from garment to face.
Following a cyclical seasonal approach, blue and yellow defined the first quarter of the collection. Velvet and embroidered silks made up the most traditional of the looks – a floor-length, caped gown inlaid with pearl detailing from neck to waist. The designer found strength in his fusion pieces, from a Western ’50s dress with full skirt and open decolletage to a bell-bottomed version of the traditional cheongsam.
Rich gold, copper and black delivered a dramatic second quarter. Curves were hugged tightly. Beading and feathers appeared for an asserted femininity, blended with animalistic overtones that achieved a sharp edge in an obsidian alligator bodice.
A brief flirtation with raised hems was entered into over indigo and aubergine, with an allusion to the ’20s flapper spoken through tiered fringing. Settling firmly back into floor-skimming, heavily worked gowns, the designer finished in wintery white and shades of blue.
Drawing so richly from his own roots and past eras of Western style, Laurence Xu’s celebration was a befitting way to conclude a diverse and frenetic fashion season.
Symonne Torpy
