Christine Phung SS14

The rooftop of Galeries La Fayette could not have provided a more iconic backdrop to open Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2014. Architectural sentries of French culture joined the international vanguards of style in observation, as the city began its prêt-à-porter season with one of its own. French-Cambodian designer Christine Phung presented a moment of quietude with ‘Liquid Delusion’. A manufactured addition to the mis en scene, ephemeral water bodies reflected the tenor and palette of the collection – light, pleated looks in blue, black, white and grey. Ease resonated in natural fibres and organic silhouettes. Prints were hand-drawn by the artist William James Thurman, adding depth and dimension beyond Phung’s textural manipulation. Elasticised cuffs lent a relaxed, sportswear element to jackets – a factor that will likely lend itself to commercial success.

Unfortunately, the designer failed to fully realise the subtle potential of her elemental inspiration. A short, monochromatic look, embellished at the bust in tight waves, was overly literal. A wide-cut coat in a bold, graphic print might have struck a more pleasing note, had it been styled more fluidly; the silhouette was interrupted by a heavy, calf-length skirt in lace. Bias-cut dresses had movement, but lacked unique vision.The strength of the collection was held in two all-white looks – an airy coat ensemble, which succeeded in balancing abridged length, wide cut and sheer, pleated textures, and an ankle-skimming dress with transparent cut-aways that captured the feminine water spirit with sophistication.

Symonne Torpy