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While at Designblok Prague, I had the chance to speak with Kiew-based designer Irina Dzhus. Her label DZHUS’ Spring/Summer 2016 collection “PRO FORMA” is inspired by uniform design, with a priority of functionality and standardisation over subjective aesthetics. With innovative and alternative cuts, Irina plays with the recognisable, structural features of medical, training and workers’ wear in her eclectic, exaggeratedly normcore designs.

DZHUS’ signature industrial-inspired finishing can be seen in fastenings with strings, raw hems and exposed overstitchings. Seam allowances are exposed on the right side and piped with bias-binding that forms straps, extending past the edge of the fabric. Elastic gathers replace traditional tucks. The ivory-grey and black pieces are made of hand-treated bleached linen and textured cotton. Definitely one to watch!

 

NoéMie Schwaller

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