Riccardo Pfenninger-Fabro by Dimitra Charamanda
Riccardo Pfenninger-Fabro is the CEO of Zurich-based silk business Fabric Frontline, which produces accessories of the highest quality while supplying the world’s most renowned design houses, such as Chanel, Dior or Vivienne Westwood, with luxury textiles.
Riccardo, how do you think the Swiss fashion industry has developed in the last ten years?
You have to distinguish between the textile and the fashion industry. The former is obviously rather difficult in all of Europe, also in Switzerland. Some important textile producers have disappeared from the market, but there are a lot of innovative, young people involved in design doing an excellent job. It’s important to find good, local people to collaborate with. We have our own in-house design team, but collaborate with young designers, as we want to give them a chance to see how we work and involve them in the design process. Always open and looking for new talent we’re confident about the future.
What do you think are the main characteristics of Swiss fashion design?
It’s difficult to differentiate between Swiss, British, Austrian or German designers because we’re all individuals by definition. There are a lot of young Swiss designers who’ve already been to many countries; they’re open to multicultural influences, which is interesting for us. It’s hard to define a real Swiss specific; I’d say rather structured in the process and hard working – that’s the Swiss way.
What about your own designs?
Our ambition is to make unique, particular, elaborate designs. Fabric Frontline always takes its inspiration from nature: flowers, plants or animals. Then this inspiration is incorporated into our designs, where colour is key. Each design should be a masterpiece and something truly special.
Where do you see Swiss design in the international market?
Our business is divided into two segments. We’re producing the most beautiful scarves and ties, but also create high-quality couture fabrics in cooperation with big fashion houses, partners and friends like Dior, Chanel or Vivienne Westwood. If you look at other design houses in Switzerland, you’ll see most of them targeting customers in the prêt-à-porter, semi-couture and couture markets. That’s where we’re strong; we can help these designers and be part of their success. The Swiss should concentrate on making unique, specific, high-quality products. This is where we will be successful in future.
Is that something you target with Fabric Frontline?
Absolutely, yet the market is getting smaller. Ten years ago, international luxury products weren’t coming from or were made in China. That has fundamentally changed. Today many pieces in Zurich’s luxury stores are made in China or the PRC. Timing is so crucial in Europe that some companies are moving back, which is good for the fashion industry. At Fabric Frontline we do everything in Europe. We print in Italy with long-term partners, bring the fabric to Zurich to have 100% quality control, then cut and hand-roll it. Our products are hand-made in Switzerland and it will stay this way.
Do you feel there’s sufficient funding available?
There’s never enough, but that’s a general problem in all industries. Some have better structures and organised business support. Obviously the textile and fashion markets aren’t the most profitable business segments in the world. We do it on our small scale supporting Swiss designers with our own knowledge and fabrics we sponsor, so they can produce their collections – that’s part of our DNA.
What’s your role within the Swiss fashion industry?
To be very present in the haute couture and play an important part in supporting international houses. We also see ourselves giving an opportunity to young motivated designers. We offer them different internships in our company for three to twelve months in order get a feel of the international industry. We also offer jobs in different segments aiming to promote Swiss design work in terms of creativity, quality and reliability, whilst opening doors for future designers.
How did you get to work at Fabric Frontline and how was it for you to become the owner of the company?
I own an old silk trading house that celebrates its 100th anniversary next year; silk trading has a very long history in Switzerland. There used to be many, however the market has changed. I’m a firm believer in cooperation. I contacted Fabric Frontline’s founder Andi Stutz and said, “We’re one of the silk companies in Switzerland, you’re the other one. We should sit down together and brainstorm how we can support and help each other.” He was looking for someone to progress the company. It’s not easy to find a strategic investor, so joining forces was the best solution for both of us.
You took over the company in April 2012. How do you feel you’ve improved its strategy?
There was no necessity to fundamentally change the business as it was running beautifully. However, we analysed internal processes to locate the synergies within our silk trading company. Our major focus was on changing our collection development cycle. We’ve also progressed on our new store format, because the ones we want to open in the future will all look the same and as unique as Fabric Frontline. We’ll be opening our first store in 2014 and are currently looking for the right location. As a luxury label we don’t aim for wide distribution. We want to have selected customers and call them partners rather than customers. Personal contact with them is vital for us.
Are you happy where you are now?
Yes, super happy. We have a great team, a good culture and we’re very ambitious. We’re working hard but also want to have fun. We have good spirit and lots we want to achieve. I’m proud of our team.
Which Swiss piece of clothing you own is your favourite?
Freitag is a beautiful company with a great business model. I sometimes buy Navyboot and have bought from Jetset; but I find it more difficult for men. My wife is more involved in Swiss fashion design, she buys more local designers.
Interview: NoéMie Schwaller
