Laurence Antiglio by Dimitra Charamanda
Laurence Antiglio is a marketing entrepreneur turned fashion figure. The owner of Vestibule, the go-to shop in Switzerland for high-class fashion design, about her path in life and her involvement in the Swiss fashion industry.
Laurence, what is it about fashion that appeals to you?
Its beauty, creativity and the fact it changes all the time. I love to wear different clothes as it has a lot to do with what you say about yourself. I also like the design part and this ever-changing nature of fashion.
You run your own store in Zurich – what were you doing before?
I studied Hospitality Management and then worked in marketing for Unilever, so I have a very academic way of learning marketing. I was passionate about clothing, so once I’d grown up and travelled more, I decided I wanted to do something fashion-orientated. Eventually I left Unilever and moved to Paris to study Fashion Management for two years. Upon my return to Switzerland I opened Vestibule.
What was the main drive behind opening Vestibule?
I realised I could work in this industry as I was always drawn to it as my hobby. I was longing for more creativity in my life, as marketing isn’t very creative. I loved fashion so much I wanted it to be my everyday occupation. I spent years in Paris and realised many labels I’d bought and loved there weren’t available in Zurich. The initial concept was to bring French brands to Zurich and allow people here to discover them. The concept has since developed; we now also have brands and trend labels from America, London and of course Switzerland.
Do you buy a lot of Swiss design for your store?
Actually, not so much. I don’t buy a brand based on its nationality but because it’s the right time or my customers and I will like it. However, I believe we’re the only store in Zurich mixing international designers like Chloé, Phillip Lim or Alexander Wang with Swiss brands.
How do you think the Swiss fashion scene has evolved over the last ten years?
It has evolved thanks to projects such as Mode Suisse, a great platform allowing Swiss labels to gain exposure and buyer to connect with the end customer. You can see, touch, try on and buy the garments, which is the final purpose of fashion. That’s the only way to help fashion brands build and gain importance. There have previously been other fashion projects, but these weren’t concerned with the retail aspect. Desirability for Swiss labels has increased, as has the self-confidence of its fashion scene. The general attitude towards Swiss fashion is positive; there’s great local design out there to discover and people want to wear it.
What do you think are the main characteristics of Swiss fashion design?Switzerland’s heritage is certainly present in many labels. A great deal of attention is being paid to the way clothes are made, sustainability etc. The collections are often pretty conceptual – at times, I think, too conceptual. Having a concept and seeing it through from start to finish while doing it well is necessary, but it’s important to keep in mind that clothes have to be worn and desirable – sometimes they should just be fun to wear.
Where do you see it the international market?
Emerging Swiss labels are small, very often local. Swiss fashion is Swiss and young labels often stay in Switzerland. I believe young Swiss fashion has to go more international and export itself to progress – I hope this will be the case. I would love to buy more Swiss labels and support them, not only because they’re Swiss and we want more exposure, but because I want to wear their designs. Desirability must be present.
Do you feel there’s sufficient funding available?
Switzerland still has money to support projects, however I don’t know the full reality of the situation. I have a feeling it’s possible to find money, but you have to ask. Still, if the money is there, it’s never enough because it’s very expensive for labels to build their own identity. There needs to be more support from companies and everyone else.
What’s your role within the Swiss fashion industry?
A very small one, as I only have the one store – one with a voice though. It’s always interesting for me to get introduced to new collections and, I hope, also for the designers, because I’m able to give them input about what our customers like. To be confronted with the market’s opinion isn’t aways the nicest aspect, but crucial for the designers to hear. We learn from each other.
Which Swiss piece of clothing you own is your favourite?
I recently bought a piece by Kazu. I love what she does. She has a strong identity and a store in Zurich. Kazu works well with colours and uses nice fabrics. It’s not a label I have at Vestibule right now, but it’s clothing I like to wear. At the moment I also love an Italian earpiece I own from CA&LOU; one of the designers is Swiss.
Where do you see Swiss fashion design progressing in the future?
I think there’s a chance for the Swiss market right now, but it still has to evolve. As a result of the Internet, niche brands now have more importance and a greater chance to survive. It needs to branch out internationally, but is on the right path. There’s more initiative and their presence in England is progressing. It’s important for labels to gain exposure while maintaining their identity.
Interview: Jack Buster
