Starting life in the fashion laboratory of London, Ground Zero is a relatively new, yet dependable flint of excitement on the Paris prêt-a-porter schedule. Recognised over three triumphant seasons of print, design duo Eri and Philip Chu present a Spring / Summer 2014 collection that challenges the contemporary woman-cum-space-warrior. An unexpected colour palette and conceptual musings germinate in the terrestrial, but advance far beyond.
Dusty clusters of roses clash deliciously with a neon pink jodhpur and jacket ensemble for a strong first look. The motif appears across both blouse and neoprene high-heel spats. It could have been all too ‘matchy matchy’, but there is something chic in the incongruence of a time-bound aesthetic embodied in the staid florals, juxtaposed against detailed sportswear.
Ground Zero’s girl is one of quick evolution. Engaging with this season’s fascination with the transparent, an airy organza blouse hosts an asymmetrical oblong, which bleeds from chest to arm, shifting the eye off balance. The rose motif bows and dips against influence from outer space. From trousers, to shorts, to skirts, and all accompanied by sporty top-wear, the abundance of separates is both artistically dynamic and viably commercial.
Breaking free halfway through the show, the duo detach from the old to fully embrace exploratory futurism. There is a great deal of beauty in print blocking – a sophisticated progression from colour blocking, which stimulates the eye across several levels and cleverly transforms graphic panels via interludes of bold hues, sheers and cut-aways.
Conjured up by her environment, a femme invader dominates the end of the show. She appears as a print feature and reads as a powerful totem. The essence of the collection: Ground Zero’s woman is strong, independent and shocking in her contrasts – titillating in organza and neoprene, but ever-reserving the agency to reimagine the traditional rose.
Symonne Torpy
